When the fridge stops keeping cold
A refrigerator that isn't cooling puts food at risk quickly. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration recommends keeping the refrigerator at 40°F or below and the freezer at 0°F. An inexpensive appliance thermometer tells you whether yours is actually there. If it isn't, work through a few checks before calling for service, and keep the doors closed as much as possible in the meantime.
Checks you can make first
- Power and settings. Is the fridge plugged in, is the outlet working, and has someone changed the temperature control or switched on a "demo" or "vacation" mode?
- Door seals. A torn or dirty gasket lets warm air in. Close the door on a piece of paper; if it slides out easily, the seal isn't gripping there.
- Airflow inside. Overpacked shelves or items blocking the vents between the freezer and fridge sections stop cold air from circulating.
- Condenser coils. Dusty coils, usually behind the kick plate at the bottom or on the back, make the compressor work harder. Unplug the fridge and vacuum or brush them gently.
- Clearance. Refrigerators need space around them to shed heat. A fridge squeezed into a tight cabinet or a hot garage may struggle.
Common problems and their causes
- Freezer cold, fridge warm. Often a defrost problem: frost has built up on the evaporator coil and blocked airflow. Causes include a failed defrost heater, thermostat, sensor or control board. A failed evaporator fan is another common cause.
- Nothing is cold. Could be a failed compressor start relay, compressor, condenser fan, control board or a refrigerant leak.
- Water on the floor. A clogged defrost drain, a leaking water supply line to the ice maker or dispenser, or a cracked drain pan.
- Ice buildup in the freezer. A door that doesn't seal, a defrost system fault, or a door left ajar.
- Ice maker not working. A kinked or frozen supply line, a closed valve, a clogged filter, a failed inlet valve or a faulty ice maker module.
- Noises. Clicking, buzzing, grinding or rattling can come from fans, the compressor, the defrost system, or simply the fridge not sitting level.
Repair or replace?
Many refrigerator repairs are straightforward: fans, defrost components, start relays, door gaskets, water valves and control boards. Sealed-system repairs, such as replacing a compressor or fixing a refrigerant leak, are much more expensive. A common rule of thumb is to weigh the repair cost against the cost of a comparable new refrigerator and the age of the one you have. A technician should give you a clear diagnosis and a written price so you can decide.
If you replace, newer refrigerators are generally more energy efficient than older models. Check the yellow EnergyGuide label for estimated annual energy use. Ask about proper recycling of the old unit, because refrigerators contain refrigerant that must be recovered.
Food safety during a breakdown
Keep the doors closed. A full freezer holds its temperature longer than a half-empty one. If the refrigerator has been above 40°F for more than a couple of hours, food safety guidance recommends discarding perishable foods such as meat, dairy and leftovers. When in doubt, throw it out.
Questions to ask
- What failed, and how did you confirm it?
- Is this part of the sealed system, or a component repair?
- What will the repair cost, including parts and labor?
- Is the part covered by the manufacturer's warranty?
- How long do you warranty your repair?