Washer problems
- Won't drain. Often a clogged drain pump filter, a kinked drain hose, or an object such as a sock or coin caught in the pump. Many front-load washers have an accessible pump filter behind a small panel at the bottom front; check the manual before opening it, and have towels ready.
- Won't spin. Can be an unbalanced load, a failed lid or door lock, a worn drive belt, a motor coupling, or a control problem.
- Leaks. Worn door seals on front-loaders, loose or cracked fill hoses, a leaking pump, or too much detergent causing overflow.
- Won't fill or fills slowly. Closed or partly closed supply valves, kinked hoses, or clogged inlet screens.
- Loud banging or walking across the floor. Unbalanced loads, worn suspension springs or shock absorbers, or a washer that isn't level.
- Bad smells. Common in front-loaders when moisture and residue build up in the door seal and drum. Leaving the door open after use, wiping the seal, using the right amount of high-efficiency detergent and running cleaning cycles help.
Replace rubber fill hoses
Rubber washer fill hoses can burst and flood a laundry room. Many manufacturers recommend replacing them periodically. Braided stainless steel hoses are more durable. Turning off the supply valves when you're away for an extended time adds protection.
Dryer problems
- No heat. In electric dryers, common causes include a failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse or a tripped breaker on one side of the 240-volt circuit. In gas dryers, a failed igniter, gas valve coils or flame sensor, or a closed gas supply valve.
- Takes too long to dry. Very often a clogged lint screen or, more seriously, a clogged or crushed exhaust vent. A restricted vent makes the dryer overheat and work longer.
- Won't start. A door switch, thermal fuse, start switch or control problem.
- Squealing, thumping or grinding. Worn drum rollers, idler pulley, belt or glides.
Dryer vents and fire safety
Lint is highly flammable, and clogged dryer vents are a recognized cause of house fires. Clean the lint screen after every load. Have the exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside cleaned regularly, more often if the vent run is long or has many bends. Use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct rather than plastic or foil accordion duct, and make sure the outside vent flap opens freely. Signs of a vent problem include clothes taking longer to dry, the dryer or laundry room feeling very hot, and a burning smell.
Gas dryers must be vented outdoors to remove combustion gases. Never vent a dryer into an attic, crawlspace or garage.
Repair or replace?
Many washer and dryer repairs, such as pumps, belts, door locks, heating elements, igniters and rollers, are reasonably priced. Major repairs, such as a failed transmission, drum bearings on some front-loaders, or main control boards on older units, may tip the decision toward replacement. Get a written price for the repair and compare it with the cost and age of the machine.
Questions to ask
- What failed, and is anything else close to failing?
- Is the dryer vent clear, and will you check it?
- What will the repair cost, including parts and labor?
- How long do you warranty your repair?
- If you recommend replacement, why?